The ULTIMATE cold weather layering guide—BASE LAYERS (1/3)

25+ size diverse recs

I racked my brain to think of all the brands that carry winter/cold weather layers and there were A LOT. It means loadsss of links so expect it will cut off in your email, please read in your browser or in-app. I’ve added a whopping 10+ brands to the directory as well. Please note that brand recs are for paid members only.

We’re coming to the end of winter in Tokyo, although the nights continue to be chilly. Between moral perfectionism when it comes to fashion consumerism and not really being financially prepared to splurge on all the ‘nice’ winter stuff, this season was a tough one for me.

In 2018, I was in Sofia, and my vegan leather, aka plastic boots, barely held on as I kept almost slipping on the snow. Having grown up in sunny Queensland, my wardrobe did not consist of clothes for a proper winter. Back then, I remember going into a department store and buying several layers, including an electric blue jumper to keep myself warm for the rest of the trip. I’m sure it was acrylic but I miss that ease in consumerism where every decision didn’t feel as loaded.

These days, my hesitation to add new items to my wardrobe leaves me in a state of decision paralysis. That hesitation both helps and hinders, it prevents me from making purchases that may never be worn or making unnecessary compromises on materials, which is pretty important for winter essentials. At the same time, scared of making the irresponsible decision, my body pays the price.

Teeth chattering, blue lips, I got sick three times—suffice to say this winter, I was damn cold. And I’m someone who prefers the cooler seasons to the stifling summer.

I was completely underprepared. And although I did end up buying a coat in January which I’ve been wearing every time I leave the apartment, next year I want to make sure my wardrobe is ready.

I know some of you might be like, wait isn’t winter pretty much over? Well considering yesterday it was snowing in Tokyo and the early bloom cherry blossoms are a week late, not quite.

Buying in advance or after the worst of the season is over can have a multitude of benefits:

• You’re not ‘in it’ and you’re able to take your time researching instead of making a scarcity-driven decision

• You might save money if buying off-season or via end-of-season sales

• You are able to try things on and return/exchange things if necessary to find a better fit (well, I can’t because of geographical limitations, but hopefully you can!)

The downside is that you might not have a lot of time to wear your new winter gear before it gets put away. However, if you’re taking on the layering approach, depending on your local climate, these layers can be worn early spring and throughout autumn.

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MY APPROACH TO WINTER LAYERING

One approach I’ve connected with is using three layers that we often see in outdoor adventure spaces—base, middle (or mid) and outer layers.

The base layers are meant to keep the skin dry while the midlayer insulates warmth and the outer layer provides weather protection.

I’ve adapted this approach for day-to-day fashion.

Moisture-wicking is less important. Continuing to prioritise warmth and weather protection. And the ability to peel off layers when entering heated spaces.

Also less focus on practicality and clothes being purely functional. Obviously tights and mini-skirts are in!

Things to keep in mind:

• Your local weather in a climate change context. There’s no use investing in heavy winter coats if the temperature rarely drops below 10 degrees (celsius). What I’m finding is that summers are hotter and longer. While winter begins with a more abrupt temperature change and has been a lot windier this season.

• Your own body and how it reacts to the cold. If you tend to run warmer, again, think about lighter layers. Maybe even skipping a coat, opting for a cotton twill jacket instead.

• Your lifestyle. Being in Tokyo, I tend to walk a lot to get around but I also take a lot of trains and buses so need to de-shed my layers quickly because they really do crank up the heat. If you live in a car-centric society, you might not be outside for too long and could again potentially get away with lighter layers.

• The weight of the material. Not all cotton, wool, or even polyester is the same. Generally, the heavier the material, the warmer it’s going to be. However, this doesn’t always ring true when you compare types of fabrics; an extra-fine merino wool jumper might be warmer than a bamboo jersey turtleneck.

Obviously, my intention is not for you to go out and buy all of these! But instead, allow you to think about what might be missing that will help you dress in the way you want to dress while keeping yourself comfortably warm. Or, finding an item that echoes what you already own but haven’t worn for awhile and want to bring into your winter rotation.

The colder months are so much fun to play with layering; there’s so many options. There’s comfort-focused athleisure, structured coats, playful patterns, and much, much more.

This week we’re focusing on base layers. Next week we’ll continue the thread with midlayers.

This rec list includes a mix of sale items and full-priced items. As always, I think we should buy full-price from ethical businesses wherever possible. But buying on sale might mean the only way for some of us to afford to buy from these brands, so I’ve tried to include them where I can.